We’re in a Prius – yes, that’s right, a shiny blue Prius – zipping through switchbacks littered with livestock and small children, and I think it’s safe to say that we’ve hired Sri Lanka’s worst driver. Sure, driving in other countries feels more like a sport, constantly cutting corners and weaving in-and-out of oncoming traffic, sans speed limit, but this guy takes it to another level. On several occasions (I stopped counting when it reached double digits) we narrowly escaped running others off the road. We’re talking slamming breaks, tires screeching, manic swerving, and coming within inches. I’ve never been so happy to wear a seatbelt. And I’ve also never been so happy to own earbuds. One can only take so much Akon and Pitbull, before blowing their brains out. It’s true.
Once settled in the city of Kandy, we had the opportunity to attend an evening puja at The Temple of the Tooth, which is very important to Buddhists, as it is home to one of Buddha’s teeth (left canine, to be exact). The story goes that when the Buddha (Siddhārtha Gautama) was cremated in India, one of his teeth was recovered from the pyre. The tooth made its way to Sri Lanka hidden in a woman’s hair piece and was given to the king at the time. Over the centuries, each king held on to the tooth and built palaces in their capital city to house it. Eventually, it ended up in Kandy, the last capital of Sri Lanka’s ancient kings.
Every day there are ceremonies during which the tooth, kept inside seven gold caskets, is taken out of its chamber for devotees to see. Offerings of flowers are laid before the sacred tooth’s chamber, prayers fill the room, and drummers fill the air with rhythmic beats. People line up – most wearing white – for the chance to catch a glimpse of the golden case up close. While space is tight, with both devotees and tourists, it is definitely worth your time. It provides the opportunity to get a feel for the ritual, tradition, and importance of the place.
Honestly, I didn’t really understand most of what was happening around me, but when faced with that kind of devotion, I suppose the details don’t always matter. All that mattered were the expressions of love on the faces of those who had come to pay their respects.
After the ceremony, we walked the grounds in need of fresh air. My favorite place was a little glass room on the terrace, enclosing a lattice of prayer candles. Faith is an admirable thing, and it’s places like this that help you to see that. Even when teeth are involved.
