Never, and I do mean never, underestimate the female powers. They come in handy regularly, but I do my best not to abuse them. I only reach into my bag of tricks as a last resort and, well, this was one of those times.
The next morning Ahmed informed me that Joris would not be joining us. He blamed his sister, insurance liability, and of course, our previous “contract.” I listened to his explanation, but wasn’t convinced. I knew that if he wanted to say yes, he could. My guess is that he saw Joris as another person standing between us, and happily ever after – a roadblock if you will. With a quick tilt of my head, a few bats of my eyelashes, and the best pouty-face I could muster, we went from duo to trio in a matter of seconds – as easy as one-two-three!
With Joris in tow, we made our way to Chinguetti, considered one of the holiest cities in Islam. We stopped for lunch and a visit to one of the ancient libraries in town. I’m very fond of any and all libraries, so this was a treat. Not only did the caretaker give us a tour of the grounds, but he also explained the importance of the manuscripts and how they were recorded. After letting us peek around, he recited a lovely poem in French, which Joris so kindly translated. There was something about his voice and overall demeanor that was so gentle, perhaps even magnetic. It’s rare that I feel that way in another’s presence, but there was definitely something about him… something different.
With daylight dwindling, Ahmed was chomping at the bit to make our way to Tanouchert. We desperately wanted to soak in the sunset while perched upon one of the many dunes, but the answer was no. Making our way through endless mounds of sand was tricky enough in daylight, so imagine it without.
Once again, the scenery was overwhelming; the colors so bright, so vibrant, that the sand and sky almost look fake. In some areas, green grass sprouted up, making for an interesting contrast. We all agreed that if we were going to partake in some kind of mind-altering activities, this would be the place to do it.
But under the cover of moonlight we realized we were lost. Spinning in circles, following various tracks, Ahmed refused to admit it, even though we asked the same nomads for directions twice. The three of us were secretly hoping we could setup camp on our own, but we knew that would never happen. He would rather drive aimlessly all night than admit defeat. After all, he’s an experienced guide, the best there is; he knows the area like the back of his hand. My favorite part was when he said, “Just look for a big dune’.” Umm, okay… we’re surrounded by big dunes! Hell, we’re driving on one as you speak!
In the end, we eventually found our way. By this time, it was obvious Ahmed wanted to line us up for some good old fashioned guillotine fun. It’s unfortunate, because the situation could have easily been avoided. We would have happily stayed in Chinguetti, but he insisted we press on. Hopefully, he’ll think twice next time. Doubtful, but one can hope, right?
