Ready to switch things up, we boarded a bus to Segou, four hours north. Of course it didn’t take four hours, though – that would just be silly. With waiting and multiple stops it took somewhere in the neighborhood of seven hours, give or take a little. It was more of the same hot, sweaty, sticky mess. At least this time we had plenty of water, a few snacks to hold us over, and seats next to the ceiling vent.
We ended up spending three nights in that sleepy town where the Niger and Bani River meet. It was there that we realized just how deeply Mali’s hands would seep into our pockets. Inquire about a motorbike rental and most will quote you 30,000 CFA for the day, which is almost $60 – madness, I tell you. Want to hire a boat and visit the fishing village across the way? That will be 22,000 CFA. Nevermind the fact that it’s just a hop, skip, and a jump away, using almost no petrol! How about that pottery village everyone keeps talking about? Oh, that will be 27,500 CFA, plus an additional 3,000 CFA per person for their chief. Ca-ca-ca-craaaazy.
We both realize that as foreigners we’re expected to pay more, which is fine, but it needs to be within reason. After trial and error, I came to the conclusion that most figures should be divided by five. In some cases four, but typically it’s five. I’m not sure why this is, but it works. Want to buy a pair of shoes? Divide by five. Need a taxi ride? Yep, divide that by five. Have your eye on a painting or crafty little item? Better divide that by five, too. Now, I should probably mention that it doesn’t mean you’ll actually get it for that price, because in some cases you won’t. I’m just saying that it’s probably the fair price and a good place to start your bargaining.
After splitting up and shopping around, we managed to find a guide, secure a private pinasse, and head up the Niger River to a nearby Bambara pottery village (Kalabougou) and fishing village (Kala Daka), all for a reasonable price. Even though we decided against hiring a motorbike, I met someone who was willing to lend his out for 6,500 CFA, instead of 30,000. Asking around, as well as persistence, pays off in the long-run.
The villages were interesting, although I wouldn’t say the pottery or fishing is what makes them so. Meeting the friendly people, playing with the children, sharing a cup of tea and seeing how they live, is the real draw. We had a lovely day, and looking back, it was definitely one of the most memorable experiences I had while in Mali.
