Our days in Nouadhibou were not of the relaxing variety. We had research to do and decisions to make. Prior to visiting, we both knew very little about the country. I suppose you could say that’s what piqued our curiosity — the unknown and overlooked. It felt so close, yet so far away.
Government issued travel warnings say that all unnecessary travel to Mauritania should be avoided due to security concerns, with most of the country in the red zone. Al-Qaeda/AQIM is to blame, as terrorism is prevalent, especially in the East. In the past few years several kidnappings have occurred, causing the Peace Corp to pull out and other organizations to scale back. Unlike most, we saw this as an opportunity: tourism has dropped off, but security efforts have escalated. After much debate, it was time to proceed with caution.
When traveling, we both appreciate flexibility and freedom. We try to have open minds, often steering clear of set plans. We like to take things one day at a time. If you looked closely at our personal lives, you might say this mindset has crept into other areas, but that’s neither here nor there.
We had our sights set on the interior, specifically the Adrar region to the East. The only option for seeing this area is to hire an experienced guide with a 4×4 vehicle. We had the option of making those arrangements while in Nouadhibou or Atar, the capital of the Adrar.
At the border we met a local guide by the name of Ahmed. He spoke a little English and was fluent in Spanish, which would be helpful, as our French is lacking. We thought it was an idea worth entertaining, so we set up a meeting to hear his shpeel. Little did we know, the discussions would span for three days. It was exhausting, frustrating, and mind-numbing. You name it, we felt it.
Our other option was to take a 12-hour ride on an iron-ore train, followed by a 3-hour bush taxi, and hope to organize the excursion upon arriving in Atar. The train would be a unique experience, but after much deliberation, we enlisted the help of a coin, and Ahmed won with best out of three. We felt comfortable with this, as taking the train meant we’d be forced to carry a large amount of cash, miss most of the scenery, and there was no guarantee of finding a decent guide in the end.
We felt that Ahmed’s experience would allow us to get the most out of our trip. After multiple meetings it looked as though we were all on the same page. He agreed to keep our contract open, give us a discounted rate, and let us pay for the fuel ourselves. It seemed promising.
So, we loaded up his truck and disappeared into the desert. As I gazed out the window from the confines of the backseat, I couldn’t help but think…if it seems too good to be true, it probably is…
